Maintaining and repairing motorcycles is just as enjoyable for me as riding them…I find it relaxing and satisfying when you know a job is done right. But maintenance and repairs can be frustrating, detrimental to your machine or even dangerous to yourself if you don’t have the required tools and service information. Good tools and service info are two must haves for any work on any bike in my opinion. So I have posted all the relevant data for the AG200 so you can access it to help you out on your AG journey. I will add more info as it becomes available and anyone who thinks I’m short on something just let me know.
AG200F(’97) service manual – link to the first PDF format manual that I have found. It’s a scan but still very helpful.
AG200 ’03 update – link to the updates for ’03.
AG200 ’08 update – link to the ’08 updates.
These are manuals related to the Australian models but the rest of the world should be pretty close. They are also not as comprehensive as one might think but I will try and cover some of the discrepancies as time goes on.
AGman
P.S. Like my content? Has it helped you out with your AG200? If it has provided value to you and you would like to help me to continue adding content and information, check out my About/Donate page for info on doing just that! Thanks to those that contribute.
Yamaha AG200blog 
the links are broken.
can you provide new links?
thank you in advance.
Thanks for the heads up…updated links provided.
Thanks AGman, very informative. I just purchased an 86 AG200, very cheap, very rough and are looking for some engine side covers. Can you tell me what the cable operated mechanism near the kickstart assembly did/does.
Best regards
Hi Andy
Thanks for the comments.
You got an early one huh?! Good luck with the restoration.
The assembly near the kick start lever is the automatic decompresser that goes up to the exhaust rocker cover on the head, via a cable. I dont know why they put it on because they aren’t hard to start without it and they left it off on the later models even the ones without electric start.
Cheers
Jim
You sir are a bloody legend. The manuals are gonna be exceedingly helpful. I got a 85 model that was left on the side of the road for pick up in hard garbage. (a victorian thing) I asked the guy throwing it if I might partake and he was happy for me to take it. I tried it on the side of the road and it started…….so home to the trailer and been tinkering with it ever since.
I’m afraid it won’t really look like an old AG by the time I’m done……but she’ll have a new life with me and the young fella.
Thanks for the comments Sean.
Yes the manuals can be helpful especially when your flying blind on a bike you haven’t worked on before. Enjoy your AG!
Cheers
AGman
Hey man, thanks for taking the time to make time for research on a tough ass bike. I bought one a few weeks ago, mid 80’s model. Runs fine but needs some tender lovin’ care before I can hope to get it registered. For now, I’m trying to connect the headlights and speedometer, wires all messed up. I hope there’s something in the manuals to help me through. First time attempting to restore anything. Lets see how it goes.
Cheers
Uzair
Hi Uzair
Thanks for the comments. Good luck with the resto, you have chosen a good bike to do your first one – nice and simple. Having said this, an old timer once told me if you can restore anything used by a farmer you can restore anything! I think he was right! Check the service manual (download from my earlier post) for a wiring diagram for the headlight. Good luck and drop us a line if you need any help.
Cheers
AGman
Hey AG Man, hope you’re doing good. I was thinking of buying indicators and a tail light for the farm bike. It says that the indicators are a universal fit so thats alright. As for the tail light, you reckon this one will do?
http://www.bikebiz.com.au/products/DRC-CRF%252dX-Tail-Light.html
Regards,
Uzair
Hi Uzair
As far as electrical properties go, the light will work fine. Not sure how you go about mounting it though. Shouldn’t be too hard, but its hard to say without looking at it. Wont be a problem if your handy with the tools.
Cheers
AGman
The links are broken!
Not at my end their not…
Hello AG Man,
Love your site, very helpful. However i am having trouble tracking down a kick start return spring for my 87′ AG 200. Any ideas? Part Number? or another model which uses the same spring?
Thank you!
Lachlan.
Hi Lachlan
Thanks for the comments.
There are a few models that may work like the TW and the XT200, but they are rarer than any AG! Plenty of trashed AGs around…find a small country Yamaha dealer, they will probably have a wrecker hanging around.
Cheers
AGman
Thanks for the info! I ended up sourcing a brand new spring for a TW from an eBay seller in Greece of all places for $25 delivered, should come in the mail this week.
I’m in the process tidying up my little 87′ AG which is actually running like a dream (aside from having to manually pick the kick start off the floor every time i want to start it).
Also the clutch is a little sticky after changing up gears, so when the RH case is off I’ll give it a new set of plates, is it likely they clutch springs will need changing too? the only reason i ask is that the only full clutch kit (springs included) i can find is from the UK where as i can get a plates only kit from closer to home for a fair bit less.
Thanks again.
Lachlan
Hi Lachlan
I have the photos for clutch replacement done, just need to do the writeup! Is probably a few posts away. I always replace the plates and springs as a set but most people don’t and still get away with it! Check out the specs in the manual and measure your springs if you want a definitive answer. I always do them because I think the clutch is borderline in the bike, especially if you up the gearing. My guess with the age of your bike that the springs will be under spec. They aren’t that expensive from Yamaha either. The manual tells you how to adjust the clutch via the lock-nut in the center of the unit. If the clutch is sticking, it may just need a tweek, when it slips is when you need to do the plates and springs.
Keep us updated.
Cheers
AGman
Hi there,
I am having trouble getting my Ag to start. I have 12volts going into the starter solenoid but only 7volts going out the other side to the starter motor. I have brought a new solenoid and that does exactly the same. Any ideas why this might be and how to fix it?? Thanks Matt
Hi Matt
At what point are you measuring the 7 Volts? If its down at the starter motor then you are losing it in the cable. Check the connections at both ends, particularly the one at the starter end, it is right in the flow of crud from the front wheel and can suffer due to this. Also check the ground cable from the battery, check the battery end and the eyelet that connects onto the engine case bolt near the oil fill plug.
Let me know if this helps…
Cheers
agman
I measured 12volts on one side of the solenoid then when pressing the start button the solenoid clicks and there is only 7volts on the other side of the solenoid. both the new and old solenoids do this. Im guessing it has something to do with the other small 3 wires going into the top of the solenoid but I’m unsure what they do? one must come from the starter button?
Hi Matt
Simple ohms law if want to look it up. You have a high resistance somewhere in the high current path of the starter circuit. Somewhere between the battery and the starter you have a high resistance that drops the circuit by 5V when solenoid switches the battery into the circuit. It could be before the solenoid, after the solenoid or the earth cable as I have mentioned. Inspect and clean all these connectors even if they look OK. The solenoid is the first thing I would of suspected, then I would be looking at all the high current cabling related to it now.
Good luck, keep us updated…
Cheers
AGman
Hey any chance of getting them reuploaded or emailed to me? Thanks!
Hi Jan
Have been getting copyright spiders giving my site a lot of attention lately and thought I would cool it for a while. Keep checking back here and the forum and I’ll get them up again soon.
Cheers
AGman
Hi there AG Man, I have a 3gx motor that i am going to give a new life in an offroad go-kart for my grandson, I am wondering if there is a list of engine numbers – year of manufacture out there as I don’t have the rest of the bike.
I am looking for a carbi and cylinder mount and CDI module and maybe a harness to attach the module to the engine.
The engine number is 3GX-072286.
Any help is most appreciated.
Graham
Also I have registered on the Forum but have not received a confirmation yet.
Many thanx
Graham
Hi Graham
Is your bike electric start or kick only? Try Parts listings for parts listings, the older listing is for pre-electric leg, the newer listing is for electric leg. There are few changes for all the years for these different models. If there were any parts updates, your Yamaha dealer should have the newer part listed in his listings.
I will check out the forum…seems to be an issue, lots of people signing up but not getting the confirmation email.
Cheers
AGman
Three GX Yamaha motor is a 97
I bought an AG200, 2004 model in very excellent condition from a company. The motorcycle was thoroughly serviced by the dealers prior to selling it. However the motorcycle has a hard start. You have to kick it several times before starting. However when i was getting it from the company it used to start with just one kick. The only change is that after purchase i immediately replaced a broken cable – one that moves when you are kicking (it runs from close to the kicking pedal to the upper side close to the tank where it connects to some round metal plate). Please assist what the problem could be. Is it this cable that has changed the behaviour of the motorcycle.
Hi Timothy
The cable is for the auto decompresser, it opens the exhaust valve slightly to reduce compression so the bike is easier to start. My guess is that it is adjusted incorrectly and it is holding the exhaust valve open too much making it harder to start. You need to get this cable adjusted correctly or remove it completely until you do because it may be holding the exhaust valve open all the time which will damage the engine. Unfortunately, I have no information on this procedure so I cant help you out there but a mechanic in your area should be able to help you out. If not, just remove the cable, it will be fine with out it.
Cheers
AGman
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Hello AGman, we recently bought an AG200 (2003), with the view to getting the wife back on two wheels again. It’s got a pretty high mileage, over 70 000km’s, but the engine runs well and it looks overall to be in reasonably good condition. We have no idea of its previous history. However, one problem we found is that the rear wheel had quite a lot of play when moved from side to side, possibly almost a centimetre. We thought the bearings might be shot so we bought new seals, bearings, spacer and axle etc. Fitted it all together today but still the same problem–maybe not quite as much movement. Any idea what the problem might be? Your advice would be much appreciated.
Regards,
Rick
Hi Rick
Have a good look at where the movement is coming from, its very common for these bikes to chew out the swingarm bushes. this is the section that the swingarm pivots at the back of the engine. At the mileage you mentioned they will be well and truly shot even if they have already been replaced once or twice. You can buy an All-Balls set on Ebay for under $100 and it’s a pretty big job to do…unfortunately I never managed to get a tutorial up on this procedure. Let me what you find and how you get on…
Cheers
AGman
Hi Again, thanks for the swift reply. Just been out and checked the wheel and swingarm–could feel/see absolutely no play at all in the latter (really hoping that that job is something we won’t have to attempt!). The lateral movement in the wheel is very noticeable where the hub that holds the sprocket goes in as you wiggle it side to side, i.e. the wheel is moving but the hub and sprocket is not. Two reasons that I can think of: the rubber ‘cushions’ are worn, although they looked pretty new to me, or else a spacer or bush has been left out somewhere (again). Is this feasible and is there anything else that could be responsible?
Thanks again,
Rick
Hello AG man, thought my may like an update on our problem with the ‘wobbly wheel’. This weekend we found an unfinished project bike (’91 model), fairly cheap, on Gumtree and took a chance on buying it…specifically to swop the rear wheels around. We did so and it works a treat. Wheel runs true with absolutely no side to side movement. Didn’t inspect the internals but did notice that the replacement wheel had a large plastic ‘thingy’ just inside the sprocket which our original wheel doesn’t have. No idea what this was so looking on the Yamaha parts list it says it’s a cover, plate. Can’t see how this would make such a difference, but problem is now solved. Cherry on top is that the new wheel has a brand new tyre fitted to it!
Thanks again for a very informative resource,
Cheers,
Rick
PS I noticed that our original ‘bike has Union Cycle rims but the other ones are Takasago. Union Cycle doesn’t sound particularly Japanese?
Hi ag man
What year did the exhaust silencer change shape From a cylinder to a more rectangular shape
Hi Jonathan
To my knowledge the muffler hasn’t changed for the entire life of the AG200. If it has it would be minor. They have always been a welded together pair of steel pressings that produce a rectangular-ish box. The reason you see the cylindrical ones on AG200s is that the original rots pretty quick and there is a generic aftermarket one that people put on because the original Yamaha one is around $240 just for the body (no heat shield, baffle or fitting hardware).
Hope this helps.
Cheers
AGman
Thanks for your help ag man